Quick Guide to Solve Minor Housekeeping Concerns

Quick Guide to Solve Minor Housekeeping Concerns

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  Miscellaneous Housekeeping Hints AssortedTimesavers Light for Emergencies To prevent accidents and confusion when storms knock down power lines, it is wise to prepare for storm damage ahead of time by keeping emergency lights on hand. Locate a few miniature, inexpensive pocket flashlights in strategic spots around the home. Keep one near the fuse box, one near the cellar stairs, one near the furnace, and one near any other potential danger area. When Lights Go Out Simplify the job of locating flashlights, tools and other items when lights suddenly go out during a power failure by taking time now to point on dabs of luminous paint, or stick on strips of luminous tape. These will glow in the dark and make the emergency supplies much easier to locate. Protect Hardware Brass doorknobs, escutcheon plates and other ornamental hardware can be protected from corrosion and pitting by periodically rubbing on a thin layer of paste wax. Clean thoroughly with metal polish or scouring powder first, then rub on the wax and buff vigorously when dry. Renew once or twice a year to assure continuing protection. Protecting Candles Tall decorative candles often lose shape or wilt during very hot weather—or when set up on candlesticks in overheated rooms. To prevent this happening, dip the entire candle in thinned shellac (about three-pound cut) and then hang it up by the wick to dry. The shellac will stiffen the candle and protect it against wilting, but will it no way interfere with its burning properly. Protect Walls To keep the corners of picture frames from scratching painted or papered walls against which they are hung, try pushing a thumb tack into the back of the two lower corners. The smooth heads will slide easily, leaving no marks on the wall when the picture is shifted for dusting. Touch-Up Paint When small chips or scratches on painted walls or woodwork must be touched up and no leftover paint is available, a small quantity of the needed color can usually be mixed by using a few drops of the children’s poster paints. Intermixing the primary shades will give almost any tint desired and the easily mixed water paint can then be dabbed on with a pointed brush. The touch –up will
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  not be washable,but it will serve nicely as a temporary repair until the next coat of paint is applied. It can be made washable by coating with thin shellac or varnish. Prevent Lids Sticking To eliminate the annoying problem of screw top lids and corks sticking on jars or cans which contain glue, shellac, or other adhesives, here is a simple solution. The first time the lid is removed rub a small amount of petroleum jelly over the inside of the threads on the lid. Renewed occasionally, this will keep lids from sticking in the future. Lengthen Broom Life Ordinary brooms wear down rapidly when used to sweep up rough cement floors in basements or garages. Their lives can be lengthened considerably by dipping the ends of the bristles into a shallow pan of thinned shellac. Pouring Trick To simplify the job of pouring a fine stream of liquid from a bottle or can, hold a large nail or pointed lead pencil across the opening before pouring. If done gradually, the liquid will flow down along the sides of the pencil or nail and will stream evenly off the point into the exact location desired. (See Fig. 42) Tighten Handles When the threaded wooden handle on a floor brush or other tool works loose, emergency repairs can be quickly made by unscrewing the handle and then wrapping the exposed threads with several layers of cellophane tape. Twisting the handle back into its socket will squeeze the tape into the threads and will take up the slack nicely. Fig. 42
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  Fire Safety Be sureall volatile and inflammable liquids such as solvents, torch fuels, gasoline, etc., are stored in metal cans with non-leaking tops. Such liquids stored in glass bottles may expand from heat and burst the container. If this happens with a spark or open flame nearby, you may end up with a serious fire. Wax on Woodwork When waxing painted woodwork, remember that the wax will have to be removed completely before the trim can be repainted. For this reason, use the liquid self-polishing kind. It can be easily removed when necessary with warm, soapy water and will not require the use of strong solvents. Kitchen Ventilator A kitchen ventilating fan is practically a must during the summertime to exhaust hot air and obnoxious odors. However, installation of a conventional wall-type unit is often too difficult for the home handyman to tackle—or the kitchen may be in a rented apartment or house so that cutting of an opening in the outside wall is impractical. One simple way to solve this problem is to install a small exhaust fan in the upper half of a double-hung window which is near the stove. Cut a sheet of plywood for a snug fit inside the window frame, then cut a hole in the center of the plywood to accommodate the fan. Mounted in this way, the fan can be taken down and stored during cold weather or when not in use, and can be quickly replaced when needed without use of tools. Prevent Sliding Kitchen step tools and tables with metal legs can be prevented from sliding or slipping on waxed floors if rubber crutch tips are slid over the bottom of each leg. These come in various sizes and are sold by most drug stores and all surgical supply houses. Emergency Glides When heavy crates or large pieces of furniture must be slid along cellar floors, garage floors, or driveways, corrugated metal caps from soda bottles make handy temporary glides which will greatly simplify the job. Put one cap upside down under each corner and tap with a hammer so the metal edge digs in. The corrugations will hold the cap in place, and the smooth top will then permit sliding easily. Jar Opener An ordinary squeeze-type nutcracker makes an excellent "wrench" for opening tight-fitting caps on small-mouthed jars or cans (Fig. 43). Apply only moderate pressure—just enough to keep it from slipping. On cans be careful you do not squeeze so hard that the top is bent out of shape.
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  Fig. 43 Hose Washers Rubberwashers for hose couplings have a way frequently getting misplaced just when they are most needed. To keep them always handy so that they can be instantly located when needed, slip them over a large nail driven into the wall near where the hose is stored. Drive the nail at a slight downward angle so that washers will not slide off. Mixing Containers Finding suitable containers in which to mix small amounts of glue, paint, or other materials is difficult—and often expensive if the material ruins the container. By bending up four sides of a small piece of aluminum foil, however, one gets a small leakproof tray of any size. It does the job, then is thrown away. Cutting Foam Rubber This versatile material is awkward to cut neatly with an ordinary knife or scissors. However, if compressed tightly beforehand by pressing down on it with a flat board, it will slice easily with a long-bladed sharp knife, or on a paper trimming board. Dip the blade in water to lubricate it if it tends to "grab." Handy Sticks Wooden tongue depressors of the kind used by physicians are handy to keep around the home and workshop. They make convenient, disposable applicators for all types of glue, mastic and adhesive, and are also handy as mixing sticks or paddles when stirring small cans of paint or similar material. The depressors are comparatively inexpensive and are available at most drug stores. Improvised Level When the householder needs a temporary surface level to make certain that a piece of furniture or a large appliance is standing level, a quick one can be improvised from an ordinary glass measuring cup which has markings on both sides. If the cup is filled with water to any one of the
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  marks, it willshow that the surface is level when the water contacts the marks on all sides of the cup. Cutting Out Pages To cut pages cleanly out of a magazine or book, a sharp knife or razor blade is ordinarily used. However, unless extreme care is used the razor blade will usually cut through pages below, removing sheets that you did not want to damage. To prevent this, slide a sheet of stiff cardboard under the page before slicing. This will provide a firm backing which assures a neat cut and will prevent damage to other pages. Protect Blades Single-edged razor blades are used around many homes for clipping articles out of magazines and newspapers and for other cutting jobs where a very sharp blade is required. Since only the corner of the blade is used, protection against accidental cuts can be provided by covering most of the edge with a strip of tape. When the exposed end dulls, the tape can be moved over to expose the other end while covering up the original end. Preserving Brick Real brick has become increasingly popular for use on indoor walls in modern homes. To help keep them clean and to prevent stains from soaking in, apply a thin coat of clear penetrating wood sealer, mixed half- and-half with turpentine. Make certain the bricks are clean and dry first. Rope Knots To prevent knots on the ends of Venetian blind cords and sash cords from untying or unraveling, dip them in shellac while they are still tight. Let the knot soak up all the shellac the rope will absorb, then allow it to dry for about half an hour before using. Emergency Funnel When liquids or powders must be poured from large containers into a narrow-necked jar or can, a funnel of the right size is seldom at hand. The problem can be quickly solved with ordinary kitchen-type aluminum foil. Fold double to give added strength, then roll into a cone to create a shape which will serve as an effective funnel. The small end of the cone can be rolled as tight as needed to fit into the neck of the bottle. (See Fig. 44.) Fig. 44
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  Lengthy Matches On thoseoccasions when the housewife finds it necessary to light tall, hard-to-reach candles, or a deep fire in the fireplace, ordinary short matchsticks make it necessary for her to stretch or climb needlessly. In addition, she may have to bring her hand dangerously close to the fire. To simplify this job, use an ordinary drinking straw. Light the end of this first, then use it as a colorful taper for lighting the candles or the fire. Large Blackboard Parents interested in providing large blackboards for the youngsters can create one out of any smooth sheet of hard-board or on any large flat wall surface. Simply paint with two coats of flat black enamel (available at all paint stores) or ask for special blackboard paints which are also available. These paints can be put on over any paintable surface after a suitable primer has been applied. Household Clamp For small gluing jobs around the home when no conventional carpenter's clamp is available, pressure can often be applied with an ordinary spring- grip pants hanger. Strips of wax paper can be used to protect the face of the hanger against adhesive which may ooze out. Metal Legs A length of ordinary pipe threaded at one end and a standard pipe flange can be used to improvise inexpensive metal legs for work tables or picnic tables. Screw the flange to the underside of the table top, then twist the threaded end of the pipe into the flange. To protect finished floors, rubber crutch tips can be slipped over the bottom end of the pipe. Holiday Hint To hang holiday wreaths and other decorations during the Christmas season without damaging doors or walls, use paste-up picture hangers which are sold in all art supply stores. The swivel hook is mounted on a strong, adhesive-coated tape. When this is moistened it will stick firmly onto any smooth wall or door and will support up to fifteen pounds in weight. Sold as a package of six for less than a quarter, these picture hangers can be easily removed without damage to the surface by soaking with water. Removing Dents The best way to hammer out dents from pots, pans, or other objects made of sheet metal is to first lay the dented object over a box of sand. Then hammer from the inside with a rubber mallet, or use a hammer with a rubber crutch tip slipped over the head. The sand gives solid support so that no new dents are created, yet it permits the metal to give under the hammer blows.
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  Removing Decals The easiestway to remove a decal without damaging the finish underneath is to cover it with a wet washcloth and then press a hot iron over the cloth. Within a few minutes the steam will soften up the old decal to permit easy removal. Storing Small Parts Plastic ice cube trays make excellent miniature storage drawers for small tacks, nuts, bolts and other miscellaneous hardware. They also serve as handy sorting trays for temporary storage of tiny parts when working on small, complicated models. Storing Washers Washers and nuts are always difficult to find in the average home handyman's scrap drawer One easy way to keep them handy is to slip them over the open end of a safety pin or diaper pin. Assorted washers and nuts can then be kept always visible and together by closing the pin and hanging it over a nail in an exposed location. Cleaning And Stain Removal Cleaning Blinds A pair of mitts made out of old turkish towels can speed the job of cleaning Venetian blinds. To make these, outline your hand on a sheet of paper, then use this as a template to cut the toweling about an inch larger all the way around. Sew together, then turn inside out. With one of these both sides of each slat can be wiped at the same time. Protect Sills To keep window sills from water spotting when rainstorms occur while the windows are open, rub on a thin coat of good quality paste wax. This coating will protect the painted woodwork, and will make it easy to wipe off moisture without staining. Remember to remove the wax before repainting. Cleaning Windows To save climbing and lugging of ladders when outside windows must be cleaned, try using a long hose brush of the type that screws onto the end of a garden hose. Usually sold for scrubbing cars, these brushes have hollow handles through which the water flows. Models are available with shut-off valves built in and with detergent dispensers in the handle.
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  Picture Frame Marks Fig.45 When pictures that have been hanging for some time are removed, a dark or discolored area is frequently left on the wall behind them. This is usually caused by lack of circulation so that dust accumulates to darken the wall covering. To prevent this, drive two large carpet tacks or rubber- headed bumper tacks in the lower corners of each picture frame before hanging it (Fig. 45). This will hold the picture away from the wall and will permit air to circulate behind it. Wallpaper Stains If promptly tackled, many grease stains can be removed from wallpaper with a sheet of clean white blotting paper and an ordinary electric iron. Lay the blotting paper over the stain and press for a few minutes with an iron which has been set to a medium heat. Most fresh grease stains will be liquified by the heat and will then be absorbed by the blotting paper. If necessary, repeat several times, using a clean section of the blotting paper for each operation. Spatters on Brick When paint is accidently spattered on unpainted brick, the spots are quite difficult to remove by ordinary means, even when they are fresh. One trick that usually works is to rub over the spatters with another piece of brick. The brick dust created will usually pick up the paint and will camouflage what little remains. A broken piece of concrete will work the same way on spattered cement or stucco. Carpet Burns Cigarette burns in carpeting are a frequent problem in many households. To remove them easily (if the burn mark is not deep), rub lightly with fine, dry steel wool. If the burn goes deeper, then the ends of the burnt tufts should be clipped off carefully with a scissors first. Then scrub again with the steel wool till all black marks disappear.
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  Grease Spots inRug To remove grease spots from rugs, try mixing a paste of dry cleaning fluid and powdered starch. Spread over the grease spot, and let dry completely. Then carefully scrape and vacuum up the dry dust. Stubborn spots may require several applications. Grease on Wood Floors Grease spilled on wood floors should be quickly cleaned or it will make a lasting stain. Wipe up the surface liquid with a rag dampened in carbon tetrachloride or a petroleum-base solvent. If a stain remains, cover the spot with an inch-thick layer of sawdust that has been liberally wet down with a solvent. After a few hours sweep the sawdust into a dustpan. The stain should be drawn up into the sawdust. Grease on Concrete Floor To remove spilled oil or grease from an unpainted concrete floor, cover the stained area with a one-half-inch-thick layer of dry, powdered portland cement. Let this stand for twenty-four hours or more, then sweep it up. Scrub any remaining stains with a piece of burlap dipped in a solvent such as varnolene or mineral spirits. In stubborn cases apply a second application of cement, saturate with solvent, and let stand overnight before sweeping up. This method usually works best during warm weather, or if the floor is in a room which is partially heated. Control Dust To keep down the clouds of dust that are stirred up in confined areas when dirty floors are being swept, moistening with water is often resorted to. One way to apply just the right amount of water without puddling is to spray it on. Use a garden sprayer or a vacuum cleaner spraying attachment filled with water. Sweeping Compound During the summer months, freshly cut grass clippings can be used as an excellent sweeping compound when dusty concrete floors in basement or garage need cleaning. The green clippings should be sprinkled liberally over the floor before sweeping. They will effectively hold down the dust and will make the cleaning job easier and faster. Scrubbing Floors When floors must be heavily scrubbed with steel wool or sponges, your fingers and arms will often tire rapidly because of the heavy downward pressure required. Oneway to help ease this job is to place an ordinary brick over the steel wool or sponge while scrubbing. Its weight will apply a good deal of the pressure needed, and will enable you to do the job faster and easier.
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  Wood Counters Wooden cuttingboards or counter tops which have become stained and discolored can be given a new lease on life by first scrubbing thoroughly with scouring powder. Then use household bleach to remove stubborn stains. The natural wood color and finish can be restored by rubbing in several coats of boiled linseed oil, applied twenty-four hours apart. Mop each coat on liberally, then wipe off the excess after about fifteen minutes. Garage Drippings To prevent an unsightly, greasy mess on the garage floor where oil drips down from the bottom of the automobile engine, place a long flat metal pan on the spot and leave it there at all times. Keep this pan half full of sand or fine sawdust so as to absorb the drippings, and clean it out whenever the sand or sawdust becomes saturated. Preserve Garbage Cans Garbage cans usually rust out along the bottom first. To lengthen their life, and to make them easier to keep clean and sanitary when they are older, the bottoms can be coated with asphalt paint. A cupful of paint can be poured onto the bottom of the can and then rolled around until all seams and crevices are filled. Be sure to scrub clean beforehand, and carry the coating up about ten or twelve inches from the bottom around the sides. Sink Stains To remove stubborn rust stains or other discolorations from kitchen sinks and from light-colored bathroom tile and fixtures, try using oxalic acid crystals. Sprinkle some of the crystals over a wet cloth and rub vigorously over the stained areas. Then rinse off. If the stain remains, make a thin paste of the acid crystals and hot water, and let soak over the spot till it dries. Wash off with plenty of hot water and repeat the procedure if necessary. Tile Stains When the joints between bathroom tiles become extremely dirty and stained so that no amount of scrubbing seems to get them clean, the problem can often be solved by using either a common laundry bleach or a little ordinary kerosene rather than the usual cleansing agents. Scrub on vigorously with a small, stiff-bristled brush such as an old toothbrush (Fig. 46). Allow bleach (if used) to soak on the surface for several minutes. Rinse thoroughly and repeat if necessary.
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  Fig. 46 Mildew To getrid of mildew on upholstered fabrics or luggage, try sponging lightly with a clean cloth which has been dampened with an equal-part mixture of denatured alcohol and water. Allow to dry in fresh air if possible. This will also get rid of the musty odor in most cases. Wastepaper Baskets To prevent dust, pencil shavings and other dirt from sticking to the bottom of wastepaper baskets when they are emptied, coat the inside and bottom with a liquid self-polishing wax after cleaning it out. Not only will this keep it from getting so messy, it will also protect metal baskets from rusting. Protect Fingernails When the lady or the man of the house does gardening, painting or similar jobs which result in dirty hands, caked dirt often works its way under the fingernails and is very difficult to remove. To prevent this, scratch the fingernails beforehand over the top of a cake of soap. The soap will become embedded under the nails and will prevent dirt from lodging there. The soap can be easily washed out with water after the job is done. Dusting Corners To ease the task of brushing dust out from corners of cabinets or woodwork, try trimming an old whisk broom or short-bristled paint brush so that its edge comes to a tapered point. For trimming the bristles use a razor blade or sharp knife. Grass Stains Green grass stains are often difficult to remove from many types of clothing. A solvent that usually works well on cotton and on most colorfast materials is ordinary rubbing alcohol. For
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  safety's sake, testfirst on a corner of the garment. If it tests out all right, rub the alcohol well into the grass stain until it is removed. Then wash in the usual manner. Plaster Stains When plaster drops onto painted surfaces during a patching job, the stain can be easily removed by first scraping lightly with steel wool, working carefully so as not to injure the painted surface. Then sponge the area with a little lemon juice diluted with three parts water, and rinse with a damp cloth immediately afterward. Furniture Repairs Blistered Veneer When veneer on furniture blisters up, a repair can be made by first slitting the blister with a razor blade, cutting parallel to the grain. Cover with a pad of cloth which has been moistened in hot water and let this soak on the surface till the veneer softens. Remove the cloth and immediately work some fresh stainproof glue under the blistered surface with a thin spatula or knife blade. Press flat, cover with waxed paper, and apply weights to hold the veneer in place until the glue has dried. Glue which has oozed out can then be carefully scraped off, and a fresh coat of wax or furniture polish applied to effectively hide the repair. Hiding Scratches Scratches on furniture can often be obliterated by wiping with a solution consisting of equal parts of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and white vinegar. Stir the ingredients well, and apply with a soft woolen cloth. Then polish with a dry lintless cloth. Water Marks When a beverage glass leaves a white ring on the top of a piece of furniture, the mark can often be removed completely by rubbing lightly with a little chemically pure petroleum. Let this soak overnight, then rub off with a clean cloth in the morning. In most cases the mark will be lightened considerably, or may even have disappeared completely. Furniture Dents To remove most dents in wooden furniture, start by first washing off all of the old polish or wax with turpentine or other solvent. Then fill the dent with water, cover with a damp cloth, and lay a warm iron directly over it till the water steams it away. Do not touch the iron directly to the finish (to avoid burning) and set at moderate heat only. In some cases the finish may turn white or show other signs of damage, so if complete refinishing on the surface is not planned, a test should be made in an inconspicuous corner first.
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  White Scratches Scratches indark furniture usually stand out because they look white. They can be quickly touched up with ordinary iodine. Apply with the point of a toothpick or a fine, pointed brush (Fig. 47). Lighten the color if necessary by diluting the solution with small amounts of alcohol. Let dry thoroughly, then cover with a liberal application of furniture polish. White Spots When white blemishes or rings occur on furniture because a hot object was placed on the surface, the mark can usually be removed with camphorated oil. Pour a little of the oil onto a soft clean cloth and wipe over the blemish with moderate pressure. Then rub vigorously with a second piece of clean dry cloth, and finish off with a light application of furniture wax or polish. Fig. 47 Marble Protection Marble table tops and counter tops are highly decorative, but they are also quite susceptible to staining by spilled liquids. To protect the marble, coat periodically with a hard, automobile-type paste wax, then buff to a high shine. In addition, wipe up spilled liquids as quickly as possible. Burns on Furniture Slight burns in furniture finishes can often be removed by careful rubbing with powdered pumice stone (available at paint and hardware stores). Use a piece of felt wrapped around a small wooden block to do the rubbing. Dip the felt in water, squeeze almost dry, then sprinkle pumice over the burned area and rub carefully. Try to limit the rubbing to as small an area as possible. On very small burns, better control can be achieved with a piece of felt wrapped around one fingertip. After the burn mark has been rubbed out, rub again with powdered rottenstone to remove scratch marks and restore the polish. Allow to dry overnight, then touch up with a thin coat of shellac after cleaning off all powder. Finish by applying wax or polish after the patch has dried.
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  Fabric Stains Stains infabrics are particularly difficult to remove because of the danger of spreading and absorption. One handy trick to remember is to use clean sheets of white blotting paper to draw out the stain after the appropriate solvent has been applied to dissolve it. For example, apply carbon tetrachloride to lipstick stains or grease stains; turpentine to crayon marks; and warm water to freshly spilled coffee or tea stains. In each case sponge the solvent on with a minimum of rubbing, then press on the blotting paper. If necessary, repeat several times. Cure for Sticking Drawers When drawers in cabinets or chests start to stick during humid weather the trouble is most often due to absorption of moisture which has caused the wood to swell. To cure this condition, open the drawer enough to enable you to slide in a forty-watt bulb and socket. Use an extension cord to plug this in, and let the lamp burn for several hours. This will dry the wood out sufficiently to enable the drawer to slide free once more. To prevent recurrence of this condition, give the insides and edges of the drawer a coat of clear shellac or resin sealer. This will seal the raw wood and prevent future moisture absorption. Fix Carvings Chipped ornamental moldings on picture frames, furniture, and other woodwork can be easily repaired by rebuilding the missing sections with wood putty (Fig. 48). This is sold in powder form, and when mixed with water dries into a hard, wood-like material which can be carved, sanded or sawed. Fig. 48 Prevent Tarnishing To keep decorative brass hardware on furniture or cabinets from tarnishing, protect it with a coat of clear lacquer applied by brush or spray bomb. Brush on carefully so as to avoid getting the lacquer on nearby finished surfaces since it may soften up or blister the finish. If a lacquer spray bomb is used, protect the surrounding woodwork by use of masking tape and sheets of newspaper.
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  Lubricate Drawers When drawersin chests or desks show signs of sticking, try rubbing the edges with paste wax to lubricate them. Wipe off dust, then apply only a light coating of wax. Buff off the excess to prevent stickiness. This also works well on windows and small sliding cabinet doors. Furniture Joints When glued joints on chairs, tables or other furniture start to loosen up, repairs can often be made by re-gluing. To avoid the necessity for completely disassembling the piece, try injecting glue into the joint with the aid of a small eyedropper. Spread the joints apart slightly before doing this, and warm the glue beforehand by immersing the container in hot water for several minutes so that it will flow more easily. To Lengthen Leg A quick way to solve the problem of lengthening one short leg on chairs or tables is to use some type of quick-hardening wood putty or plastic filler. Sand off all paint or varnish and drive a small tack into the bottom so that the head projects a fraction of an inch. Then put a blob of the plastic on a piece of aluminum foil and press the leg into it until the chair or table sits level. Allow the plastic to dry, then remove the excess with a fine-toothed saw and sandpaper. Finish off by painting or staining to match. Warped Doors Wide doors and cabinet doors which have warped can frequently be straightened out by applying heat with an ordinary heat lamp on the convex side. Do not hold so close that the surface finish is scorched, and remove the source of heat as soon as the warp disappears. Then immediately coat both sides and edges with sealer to prevent re-entry of moisture. Sectional Furniture To keep pieces of sectional furniture from sliding apart, ordinary metal hooks and eyes can be screwed into the length cabinets these hooks and eyes can be put into the back where they will not be noticed. On sofas or multiple legs along the back side. The pieces then can be hooked together until the housewife is ready to unhook them when it is necessary to slide them apart for cleaning. Miscellaneous housekeeping tasks often include cleaning or repairing of hard-to-reach and off- the-ground areas of the house. A portable and reliable scaffolding tower is needed for these. If you need similar equipment, stop by this page for details.